as promised, here are some photos

Visiting a friend's ger out on the steppes

Liz with friend's baby inside the ger, Ulzii & Badmaa in background

Craig dreaming about Nadaam!  Check out the mane on that horse and note how far forward & high the saddle is. 

Erdenet City with Copper Mine in background

Badmaa, Ulzii & Pearl in Erdenet

homeward bound

We arrived in Singapore at midnight on Sunday. The flight was a bit more turbulent than the previous two flights especially as we got closer to Singapore. We had a hassle with our room. For some unexplained reason, we couldn't check in to the room we'd booked for the week, but had to stay in another one with single beds for one night. Bit of a pain but nothing we could do about it. They have given us a very nice room now on the 19th floor overlooking Clarke Quay - the view is absolutely magnificent day and night. It is mid-autumn festival here so there are lots of colourful lights and lanterns around as well as concerts outside Central each night.

On Monday we eased into the place, got our bearings and made a few plans. We visited Little India and came back to laze around the pool.

On Tuesday we took a tour into Melaka, Malaysia. It was almost 13 hours long but well worth it. There were only two others from Switzerland on the tour as well as the driver and guide. Melaka (also spelt Malaka and Malacca) is rich in history with invasions from the Portuguese, Dutch, British and Chinese to name a few. We were particularly interested in St Francis Xavier who in 1545 was the first person to bring Christianity to the area. He was a very popular man and gained favour with the locals. A statue of him is at the top of a stepped hill where his tomb was also housed before being sent back to India.

On Wednesday we had a fairly relaxing day. We had a thunderstorm mid morning and waited until that cleared. We wandered around, had another swim at the great pool here. We ventured out in the evening, had Japanese food for dinner and watched some dancing and singing. Next we went on a river cruise down to Marina Bay.

Today we have been to Chinatown for a couple of hours and wandered around the shopping centre next to our hotel. We've had another swim and will venture out for dinner soon.

Tomorrow we are hoping to have 'high tea' at Raffles and visit the spectacular Marina Bay.

We travel home on Saturday arriving in Auckland late at night so are staying there for the night. We will visit Craig's mother, who turned 90 while we were away, and will travel home some time after that.

Thanks to all you blog readers out there. This will probably be it until our next adventure although check in next week as I'll put some photos up here.

en route to Singapore

The flight from Mongolia-Seoul is just 3 hours and a lovely smooth one it was. We arrived at the hotel in Incheon City at 5am feeling more than a little tired. Although very compact, it was a lovely modern place and we couldn't get over the contrast from what we'd come from. Everything was electronically controlled and we fiddled around trying to turn out lights, etc from a main central system. The toilet itself would have freaked out our Mongolian friends not only could you flush down toilet paper, you could have a heated seat, and a full wash and dry! The shower had jets for every part of your body as well as the ability to convert into a sauna. It was just shame we were too tired and had too little time to completely enjoy it.

We surprised ourselves by sleeping until midday and then had to quickly leave in the awaiting shuttle for our next flight to Singapore.

Last Day in Mongolia

Our plane wasn't due to depart until 11.10pm so we had a full day to enjoy in UB. We feel like we are getting to know our way around this city now. We had a good sleep in, ate Korean noodles for breakfast and re-packed our bags with the stuff we had left behind at the community centre.

We headed out late morning for the one department store in town stopping along the way at the PO and the bank. It was very hot and Craig's stomach was still reacting to some of the wedding fare from the day before although mine was okay.

We hoped we'd have time to go to the black market as well (at least I hoped!) but we weren't sure as we had to meet one of Uncle Howard's friends to do some videoing around a couple of sites.

We stopped in at a souvenir shop along the way where we were informed that we were being watched by a group of 4 or 5 guys (thieves) so we left the building from another exit. This was a little unnerving.

Along the way we found a fair trade store called "Mary & Martha" and later returned there to make a few purchases and speak with the owners - a British missionary couple.

We had lunch at the state department store and two hours later I wished I hadn't! Oh dear, it seemed pretty innoculous but obviously my system didn't think so! We did however enjoy the company of 3 Australians while we ate lunch. They had started their journey in Moscow and were travelling to Beijing on the Trans Siberian Rail. We laughed lots while they described their experiences with true Aussie humour.

We discovered that all the things we'd wanted to buy at the market were at the department store and as we were running out of time, and also had our brush with theft fresh in our minds, we abandoned the idea of the market. And although we paid more than we might have, decided to settle for safety.

Craig did his videoing with Luke and a Mongolian doctor and I lay on the bed trying to drink lots of water and flush my system with whatever was upsetting me.

Palam, the guard at the community centre, accompanied us in the taxi to the airport and we lifted off for Seoul just before midnight.

Last Day in Choibalsan

Craig & Boldoo went out mid-morning to try again to change our $US for tugriks so we could pay the hotel.  Fortunately their second attempt was successful - it seems banks here are happy to sell $US but not buy them.  I stayed back and finished packing.

We raced off to Anna Home to say our goodbyes to the kids who go to afternoon school.  They were very warm and affectionate and we feel like we are just getting to know them.  We gave them some chocolate bars and blew bubbles and balloons together.  They sang a farewell for us which Craig videoed.  As we were about to get in the car, they gave us pictures they'd drawn.

Next Boldoo hurried through the streets to take us to a wedding.  We're not sure how we got invited to this, but were of course happy to have the experience.  We had met the groom a few days previously when we were in town.  First though, Boldoo wanted to buy a wedding present.  Talk about last minute timing, we had 10 minutes to buy the gift and get to the church.  The wedding was at the Korean church where the groom is a worship pastor.  Fortunately the service hadn't started.  The church was a pretty flash building by Mongolian standards and it was decorated with flowers and balloons and everyone was dressed in their finery....except us!  It didn't seem to matter and we were made to feel welcome.  The groom arrived smiling broadly and looking very happy and the bride arrived a minute later walking up the aisle with her 'wrestler sized' father to "Here comes the bride"!  It just didn't feel right in this setting.

There was worship and then the Korean pastor spoke (through an interpreter) and we had the vows.  The groom read out a letter he had written to his parents who were not present..... in fact they are not alive.  It was very moving and emotional and I've never seen so many tears and hankies (or heard so many sniffs!) from a group of people, men and women alike. Next the bride read a letter to her (present) parents.

There were what seemed like zillions of photos taken at the front of the church with different family groupings and friends and we were invited to be a part of some of them.  We felt a bit like frauds really but the groom and bride beckoned us to join them.  The bride and groom proceeded out of the church together again to you guessed it... "here comes the bride" and we followed Boldoo out to his car.  Thinking this was the end of it for us we were surprised to find we were part of the procession to various photo spots around the city.  I envied Craig who had a seat in the front to himself... I was squashed in the back seat with 4 others - two of them being rather large males!  First we went to the Mongolian horse statue, next to Buddha Lake and finally way out to a mountain at the China end of the city.  The car bumped and shook as we tried to avoid holes (and didn't), it was as hot as and I was close to over it when we pulled into the Chinese restaurant.  It seemed we were invited to the reception along with 130 or so others.

It was a lavish affair with dishes of food appearing with great regularity and a variety of soft drinks available.  We were ushered to table number 2 with Boldoo.  After the food was eaten there were a couple of toasts - never before and possibly not again will we toast the wedding party with vodka!  It was potent stuff and could have taken the roof off your mouth. We were entertained by a band playing a variety of music including "Let it be" by the Beatles and we had a traditional Mongolian dancer.  The guests were invited to dance too and I hesitantly accompanied Boldoo on the dance floor.  I didn't have a clue how to move but afterwards he explained the Mongolian waltz with two steps to the right, two to the left and then a twirl.   It seems a tradition that each table performs a singing item and you can imagine our embarrassment at having to get up and try and sing a Mongolian song.  Craig was also invited to say a speech and we could have sung a Kiwi song but we graciously declined.

We politely excused ourselves at an appropriate time as we still had a few people to visit before we went to the airport.  There were some special people we wanted to say farewell to and leave a gift with and we picked up Bayr Magnai on our travels around - a special guy who is one of Boldoo's proteges - who we have got to know. 

Of course the most important duty was to say goodbye to the Anna Home kids who'd been at school in the morning.  This is a larger group and contains some real characters that we've come to love.  They sang for us and we had chocolates, bubbles and balloons for them.  We were also presented with a plague and a gift.  They came out to the car to farewell us and we hugged them tightly as we tried to hold in the emotions.  We wound down the windows and connected hands and the kids ran to keep up with the car as we drove away.  We wont forget them and we hope we've brought sunshine and love into their lives in the short time we've been here.

We got to the airport with plenty of time to spare, hugged Boldoo and Bayr and boarded our Enzis flight. We flew out from Choibalsan into a clear blue Mongolian sky and headed back to UB. It was a wonderfully smooth flight.  We made our way back to Uncle Howard's community centre for our last night's sleep in Mongolia.

Another great day in Choibalsan

We stayed in the hotel this morning and  I caught up on washing, emails, etc while Craig prepared for preaching tonight.  After lunch (one square meal bar) we headed out to Anna Home first stopping at the transition ger where 4 older boys live.  Only one happened to be at home and we spent time talking with him and videoing his story and singing!  He has an amazing voice and his dream is to be a singer. He's also achieving well in his school work and sport.

At Anna Home we sat around talking with the kids and videoing a number of them... their stories were very moving.  Some of them have had such sad backgrounds and yet it is great to see them happy and loved now.  The youngest is 6 and such a character - his dream is to be a soldier and he gave us a comical display of his marching ability and then finished off with a song. His enthusiastic performance was most entertaining and the other kids loved it. Hopefully you'll all be able to see it too.

At my request Boldoo took us to the market here... a girl needs a little retail therapy although I didn't purchase anything.  Going with two males doesn't give much time for shopping - need one of my girlfriends here.  I'm hoping to go to the black market in UB, it's a bit dangerous with pick pocketers and bag slashers but if I can persuade my husband I'm willing to risk it.

We had dinner at one of the leader's homes - again very basic home but warm welcome.

We rushed back, got changed and headed out to the evening meeting.  There were about 20 people there including 6 of the Anna Home kids who had walked for miles to get there. We had a time of praise and worship, Craig preached and then we were asked to pray for each person.  It was a very special time and one of joining hearts together.  We feel sad to be leaving and trust they have been encouraged by our visit.
At the end of the meeting they prayed for us which was very moving.

Billy's unbelievable vegies!

We spent today sightseeing and visiting outlying areas.  First we went to Men's Mountain behind town and got a good overview of the city where almost 50,000 live.  It is spread out along the river for over 5km. The power station is at one end of town pumping black smoke into the atmosphere and further out is the coal mine.  At the other end are disused Russian apartment buildings and monuments dating back to 1939 and 1990.  There were many Russians living here until 1990 when 100,000 of them left in one day  They left on mass and literally left everything behind - just went in what they were wearing.  Russians are well liked here, one of the main reasons being that they helped drive back the Japanese from invading Mongolia at the beginning of WW2.  It is amusing to us that we are often mistaken for being Russians.

We came back down to the centre of town and visited Buddha Lake, so named because of the statue in the middle.  This lake freezes over in winter and people ice skate on it.  Craig thinks it would be perfect for 'ice' blokarting.

Boldoo was very keen for us to meet the Mayor so we went off to the Council building.  Unfortunately she was out, so no success there, but we looked around the council chambers.

We had lunch at a new restaurant that served traditional Mongolian food - we had dumpling soup and coke!

A visit to the bank en route proved to be totally unsuccessful.  Craig needed to exchange some American dollars for local tugriks but for whatever reason the beautiful new notes were rejected by a special machine there and the teller refused to oblige.  Not sure what they were thinking but we will have to visit another bank tomorrow and try again. We can only assume they thought they were counterfeit notes.  Not good for the reputation of an elder from the Presbyterian Church!

Next we picked up a couple of church workers and headed out to District 5 crossing the river on a Russian-built concrete bridge.  This is out east towards the Chinese border.  The area also houses a number of vacant Russian apartment buildings.  A number of Mongolians live in this area and have cattle.  We met an Australian woman from Northern Territory who is working here in Education with  VSO.  She and Boldoo have set up a daycare in two adjoining gers for local children.  It only opened last week and it was amazing to see such an organised well-set up place with cute little children so happy and settled in bright surroundings.

Boldoo has a friend, Billy (our abbreviation) who lives with his wife on a number of hectares of nice farm land inherited from his father in this district. He's an extremely warm friendly guy and very keen to know about Shin Zeland.  He has turned the land into market gardens and produces the best crops we've seen here.  He has a well for irrigation and employs 5 people. The garden is extensive and we toured every corner, following him around as he proudly displayed the work of his hands.  After some time we ventured into his farm house, sat on the floor (usual custom) while his wife made various trips laden with milk tea, tomatoes, cucumber, bread, butter, cheese and candy.  Next the photo album was proudly brought out (common occurrence on our visits) and we saw photos of his two sons who board in town when attending school. Boldoo was very keen for Craig to present the gospel to him and his workers and in a natural way Craig was able to talk about God's garden and creation. They were interested and  Billy said he thinks about life while out gardening.  So the seed was sown. We trust it has fallen on good soil.

We were there for hours - time is not an issue in this place.  Billy was keen for us to stay longer and have dinner, but we had another appt.  So we left laden with gifts of produce and as good friends with an invitation to return.

We had a nice curry dinner with Margaret, the Australian, at our hotel, and enjoyed being able to chat with nothing lost in translation!

milk tea, gherkin & sausage

Dear followers, bloggers & new readers, it's good to have time to update you on the last couple of days... so much seems to happen in a day... life could be a bit dull when we get back!

Special thanks to recent, emails from Jenny M, Jan E, Tina B, Lyn B, Viv M, Jocelyn E, Ray C and Mark.  Loved reading them.  As my email address can't be accessed from this blog, I have two email addresses you can use and I seem to be able to access both - elizabethharper@clear.net.nz or vallechicanz@gmail.com

TUESDAY
Went off to Anna Home to spend time with the children who go to school in the afternoons.  We had a great time playing soccer, Chinese checkers and teaching them "God is so good....He's so good to me" and 'head, shoulders, knees & toes.  The productive vegie garden is in harvest mode.  A Canadian lady who was here with VSO for 6 months arranged for garden seeds to be sent and they were planted in May but Boldoo and others didn't have a clue what the vegetables were, how to use them or when to pick them.  They've grown tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, courgettes, melons, beans & pop corn (as they call it).  Craig had to explain how to pick (esp the sweet corn) and prepare them for cooking and eating.

We often don't know where or when we are going next and have just learnt to go with the flow. So we headed off to our next assignment which was to visit a sick lady in the most humble abode we've been to so far - no running water or power.  Often the bedroom is also the lounge and you enter through the kitchen which houses the coal fired cooker.  Most toilets are in the  far corner of the yard - long drops I think but have not investigated and not likely to!  This dear lady was lying in bed with injuries from a fall at the market,  she had her hands full and tripped head first onto concrete.  She'd been in bed 3 days and had not eaten in that time.  Her daughter and grand-daughter had been at church on Sunday and asked if we would come.  We spent time talking with her and praying and she seemed very much at peace when we left.

Our next task was not so difficult - lunch at a very nice Chinese restaurant.  This was our first time eating out at a restaurant here - we've eaten in homes but  mostly self catered.  No matter who you visit, you are served milk tea and usually gherkins and sausage, and often biscuits and candy.  When you are on a visiting roll, you have to pace yourself as it gets pretty filling but you don't want to offend your hosts.

Back to the Chinese restaurant, we were with Boldoo and a woman called Toro and her brother.  They both speak English, in fact Toro has been an English teacher and is now a translator.  Boldoo and Toro have a dream to set up a tourism venture where they could employ the Anna Home children as they get older.  They'd like to set up holiday 'gers' (round felt tents) and possibly have a number of them where people could cycle from camp to camp.  They talked business plans and ideas with Craig over lunch for a couple of hours.

Our last mission for the day was to visit another church member who we'd prayed for on Sunday.  She also lives in a fairly humble abode but must have power because there was a tv in the bedroom/lounge.  A lovely lady who has been persecuted at her work by being demoted because of her faith.  It seems that Joyce Meyer has come to Mongolia - I think she's seen her on tv.  She brought out her bible and a couple of Joyce's daily reading books which she says have helped her alot.  We chatted over milk tea, bread and candy and then encouraged and prayed for her.

Day 3 in Choibalsan

Phew these last two days have been pretty full. We've been thinking of the family lots too with Michelle's birthday on Sat and Jared's today.  Father's Day is not celebrated here as you'd imagine.  Just as well we had an early celebration of these occasions before we left.

Sunday morning Children's Church at Anna Home was pretty special.  There's a real simplicity to programmes here which is quite refreshing.  The kids met for about an hour and had some great worship (can they ever sing) followed by teaching and testimonies.  We were especially touched by a 10 year old boy who had recently given his heart to God.  His parents have both died  and he'd prayed that God would give him a home.  Such a cool kid with a bright face; could have brought him home. 

Sunday Church was at 11.30am at the Red Cross premises.  I always find it moving to be worshipping with believers in a completely foreign environment. A guitar was the only instrument and most of the songs were easy tunes to pick up.  Craig spoke with Boldoo interpreting. At the conclusion Boldoo asked if we would be happy to pray for people and for the next one and a half hours we prayed for needs from help with study, healings, to mercy from the police.  It was extremely humbling.  People really seemed to be touched and Boldoo has scheduled another meeting for this Thursday night.  We would so value your prayers for this time.  We are not sure just what to share, but believe God will show us.

After lunch Boldoo decided he wanted to take us fishing at the lake. First we were off to the river bank to get bait - worms.  It's all very basic here.  This took about 30 mins.  I decided to wait in the car and was so pleased I'd brought my book.  There were four of us - the fourth being one of the guards from Anna Home.  Next we headed for the lake stopping at a few monuments on the way.  The road was true Mongolian style and the 25 km journey took some time.   We stopped in at a ger to meet some of Boldoo's friends and experienced some country hospitality - sure pleased we can stomach milky tea cause we've had gallons of it!  It was freezing at the lake - again I was grateful to have my book.  The three guys baited up their home made lines and waited.... and waited... and then we left empty handed.  Back to the ger again for a chinwag and home.

Today we had a quieter start and explored the square and local shops.  There are two well stocked and cheap supermarkets here, a couple of banks, PO and general stores.  The furniture and goods have a decided Russian look to them.  After lunch we headed to Anna Home and helped with chopping and slicing vegetables from the garden, to make preserves for winter.  Everything is cooked over a coal (or dung) fire in the kitchen and the kids help with all the chores.  After the work was done we played games with the kids that were around.  (Children go to school either for the morning or afternoon).

Our next assignment was to visit a church member's home and business. Craig is especially keen to encourage business people here and she had requested a visit.  We were pretty amazed at her set up.  She was widowed many years ago leaving her with 5 children who are all grown up now.  About 10 years ago she started a business making biscuits.  When she started out she was using 5kg of flour per day, now she uses 200kg! She  has 7 people working for her and distributes to shops here in Choibalsan and other districts.  In the last month or so she has bought an ice-cream making machine from China and is now starting to produce icecreams.  Of course we first sampled the goods - not a hardship!  Then we toured the factory.  Next she wanted to ask advice from Craig and then we prayed for a blessing on her business and family. Her dream is for her business to be successful enough to help others.

Thanks for your prayers especially for Craig's foot.  It has been swollen and hard to walk on but has greatly improved today and there is no sign of infection.  Of course he has had a good nurse who has had to improvise with bandages and the like, even resorting to using a face mask dressing!

First day in Choibalsan

It was very wet when we arrived here last night but Boldoo's greeting was extremely welcoming.  After checking into the hotel we went to his apartment for dinner and met the family (including his 10 day old son, grandma and others).  We came back to the "hotel" about 10pm.  I have to say the thought of staying here for 7 nights was not exciting me at all - the place is very basic, the bed is as hard as a brick with sheets so tiny they can't be tucked in and the bathroom had a putrid smell. We are kinda getting used to not being able to flush paper down the toilet anywhere we've stayed in the country. 

This morning things looked a little brighter.  We went off to Anna Home and met the 26 kids who are very friendly.  They showed us their impressive vegie garden, sun flowers and chooks.  Inside we had a tour of the place and it was very tidy and clean.  It's laid out pretty well and has a school room, sewing cum computer room, kitchen and bunk rooms.  Some of the girls have to sleep two to a bunk bed.

We gave the presents out and they were so appreciative of them. It was very touching as they stood to thank us.  Wish we'd brought more in some ways although we got stung at UB Airport and had to pay $45 to bring them down here.  We talked about NZ and they asked a few questions.  Craig went off with Boldoo to talk and I was left to teach some English.

Next we were off to the river for the baptisms.  Twelve us sat and had a time of worship before Craig and Boldoo taught about baptism.  Eight were baptised.  It was very moving and humbling to be a part of this 'New Testament like' experience.The sun was beating down (around 30 I'd say) and I felt like getting in the river myself although the colour of it was a strong deterrant!  Craig was greatly relieved that the water temp was very mild and his fears of being frozen to death proved to be totally unfounded.

However it wasn't without drama!  On our walk back to the picnic area Craig stood on a jagged piece of glass. It was a bleeding mess!  The wound was well examined and attended to in a rather unique way. An organic method of treatment was administered with thanks to a donation of urine from a small child.  Craig had no option but to go along with this and I have it all on film!  This along with a healthy dose of prayer stopped the bleeding and we continued with communion.  We would appreciate your prayers for healing as the cut is around 2 cm and happened in a bog area.

Tomorrow we are going to Anna Home for Children's Church where we may well be called on to participate and then we are off to Boldoo's church where Craig is preaching.

Sorry we can't put any photos up at present.  Heard about the earthquake in Christchurch thanks to Viv.

Be in touch.  

Made it to Choibalsan

Sorry not to have been in contact and Craig tells me I've only got 5 mins.  Internet access has been difficult to get but down here we have it in our room.  Everything went well in Ulaanbaatar.  Uncle Howard's board member met us and took us to the community centre for the night.  The next day we caught the overnight train to Edernet - 12 hours of rocking & rolling.  Badmaa met us and it was a thrill to spend time with him and get to know Ulzii & Pearl.  Erdernet is a lovely city set amongst hills.

Yesterday we arrived back in UB on the overnight train - we happened to be in the same carriage as the staff who partied inbetween stations - so noisy plus the very heavy Mongolian snorer next door.

We spent a few hours in UB before flying down here.  We had a pretty rough flight in a small SAAB.  There'd been alot of rain and Boldoo was unsure as to whether we would be coming.  As there's only 3 of these flights a week it would have been a hassle. 

Have to fly, will send more later.